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<lcb>
Posted
Hi - do you test for total chlorine and determine your chloramine level from that? or is there a direct chloramine test available? We use a martini chlorometer, and test free and total chlorine but the results are all over the show. Please advise.
 
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First chloramine is not a singular species and is found as mono, di and trichloramine. There are methods or apparatus for detecting just chloramine (mono) but are not practical for dialysis applications.

The general protocol is to either test for free and total chlorine - subtracting the "free" result from the "total" result yielding a chloramine (combined chlorine) value; or to just test for Total Chlorine.

The advantage of the separate Free / Total testing is the ability to distinguish the levels of Free & Chloramine given the different maximum acceptable values of 0.1 mg/L for chloramine and 0.5 mg/L for free chlorine.

Testing just for Total Chlorine may be simpler and quicker but you must apply the lowest acceptable level, the 0.1 mg/L for Chloramine as your action point.

Many follow a protocol that specifies Total Chlorine Testing only as a routine with repeat testing of both Free and Total if the initial test result exceeds 0.1 mg/L.

As far as the meter your using and your results being "all over the show" - the instructions - state that after performing the "Free" test and adding the "Total" reagent you must wait 2 and 1/2 minutes before reading. If that's not being followed - either reading too early or too late - this could explain why your results are inconsistent. Also it's important that the meter be zeroed before any testing, the cuvet be clean - no residual stains, and the #3 reagent (Total) be added immediately after reading the Free result. Also there could be interferring agents in the sample water (see instruction manual for list)
 
Posts: 189 | Location: Griffith, In | Registered: 24 March 1999Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
<breakpar now>
Posted
Why don't you buy the Hach pocket colorimeter. I'm sure it's a lot easier to use than the one you are using now.
 
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ditto breaking par
 
Posts: 112 | Location: brooklyn | Registered: 15 October 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
<lcb>
Posted
Thanks for advice - what is your experience with the reliability of chlorine test strips instead of using a chlorimeter?
 
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<mjpc>
Posted
i'm only concerned about getting a reading of 0.00 AND display flashing,post carbon tank.talked with techs from Hach,they tell me that the reading of chlorine is so slight,meter will flash(blink) 0.00.meter has been cal'd,used 2 different 0 std blanks. and it within other stds used in cal ck kit. does show chlorine reading PRE carbon,so i guess it is operating properly
 
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Make sure if you buy the pocket colorimeter, that you buy the colorimeter II with the LOW range as well as the high. Otherwise you will always get .1 or higher.
 
Posts: 45 | Registered: 18 April 2009Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
<jdbiomed>
Posted
MJPC,
What is your total chlorine reading pre carbon tanks. I'm guessing it is very low in order to obtain a reading of 0.00 after the first carbon tank. Also, do you have over sized carbon tanks? Perhaps, that would assure a 0.00 reading. My pre carbon chlorine readings are typically 0.70 ppm toal chlorine. My reading after carbon #1 is usually 0.05- 0.09. It is <0.05 with RPC strips however.
 
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Flashing 0.00 is an error code. Basically the meter "thinks" that sample used to zero has higher level than sample with reagent added. This is usually caused by air bubbles in tubes. If you keep your sample that you origally zeroed with, you can re-zero, then re-test sample with reagent added, provided your with in the 3-6 minute window specified by Mfr.
 
Posts: 41 | Registered: 15 February 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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